The Battle of the Oranges is one of Italy’s more bizarre Carnevale celebrations. It happens just north of Turin in a small town called Ivrea. While Venice parties away the last weekend of the Carnival a battle brews in the Piedmont region. On the Sunday before Shrove Tuesday, pipe bands roam the streets building the expectation and fervour of both spectators and competitors for the main afternoon event… La Battiglia delle Arance.
Battle of the Oranges, Ivrea
It’s possible to stay overnight in Ivrea for the festival but very easy to catch the 40 minute train from Turin to join this medieval celebration. Entry costs 5Euros to get into the town and another 5Euros to buy the obligatory Berretto Frigio (Phyrigian Hat), a stocking like red hat which must be worn correctly draped over the shoulder or else deal with the disapproving stares of the locals.
This is more than a food fight. Travel to the lovely town of Ivrea and you are dropped into a medieval rebellion. Pipe bands, processions and long held traditional rituals start days before the Battle and end on Shrove Tuesday. On this most popular Sunday, beans are eaten in the morning, historical parades happen throughout the day and on the chime of 2 pm the 32 horse drawn carts begin their bombardment.
The well armoured orange throwers from the open top horse drawn wagons exchange blood orange fire with those rebelling on the ground. The chaos that ensues is an attack on every sense. The smell, the colours and the occasional required orange palm off continues well on into the afternoon. Carts come and go with refreshed vigour. Bloody noses and black eyes are the ultimate badges of honour for the competing teams. If you don’t want to risk the direct hits then find a spot behind the netted areas surrounding the Battle arenas from which to see all the uncompromising orange action.
A broken soldier
For the full experience, get yourself into the arena. Keep your eyes open and sure enough an orange will come flying in your direction. Spectators are not involved directly with the battle but if an orange flies towards your head, you are absolutely expected to chuck it right back at the attacking orange carts… after all, for one day only you are a red hatted Ivrean resident rebelling against tyrannical rule. Throw away!! And afterwards, share a vin brulés and battle stories with fellow rebels long into the night.
Where: Ivrea, Piedmont, Northern Italy.
When: Sunday before Shrove Tuesday
How much: 5Euro entry fee. And to get into the spirit, buy a red stocking hat for another 5 Euros. In Ivrea, hotels are booked up early so organise a few months in advance. Trains leave every hour from Turin to Ivrea and take about 40 mins.
Why: It’s La Tomatina with battlefields and history… and a lot of Vin Brule.
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